How to panel line pre-shade models
- Mido
- 4 days ago
- 6 min read
Since returning to the hobby. I have noticed more and more of that look. You know, that look where a model has all sorts of interesting highlights and shadows. I'm not sure if it looks entirely natural, but somehow it makes for a more interesting model. Usually it's the result of panel line pre-shading, a simple three-for-one trick that I'm going to show you the ins and outs of below!
Editor's note: Panel line pre-shading is often paired with an airbrush because edges are naturally feathered. As a bonus, I will discuss an experiment with standard paintbrushes. "Mottling" is another type of pre-shading that leverages a similar painting process, but has a different goal and will not be covered.
Why panel line pre-shade
Panel line pre-shading is an easy way to enhance a model's perceived three-dimensionality, distinguish different components, and introduce color variation. By strategically making recesses darker and raised areas lighter, we can simulate the effects of light and shadow, and produce the illusion of depth. Without this depth, our models can appear flat and uninteresting.
Things like aircraft panel lines and armor plates will readily pop. Lastly, panel line pre-shading by its nature will introduce color variation. While the realism of this technique is debated, panel line pre-shading is a great way to enhance the overall impact and artistic style of a build. It is an easy technique that I believe all modelers should try at least once.
What you need
In its simplest form, panel line pre-shading uses two contrasting colors that will work cohesively under a slightly translucent top coat. One color will serve as a shadow, and one color will serve as a highlight. Black and white are often used. Experience has made me favor white, or near-white, and dark gray. The key is for the two colors to contrast enough so that the gradient remains visible below the top layers of paint.
Here is one of my first attempts. Not the best result. But I think it gets the idea across. Notice the subtle shading on the hull and turret, and more...er...haphazard shading on the wheels. Like I said. Not the best result!
How to do it
There are only two colors at play here: a highlight and a shadow. Lucky for us, we can start the process with either:
Lay down a uniform coat of either the shadow or highlight. If you play your cards right, your primer coat will be one of these colors. Choosing which color to start with is a matter of preference, but sometimes the shape of the model can guide you. I've tended to start with the highlight color for aircraft, and the shadow color for armor and ships.
Take the contrasting color and carefully apply it to the areas that you want to darken or highlight.
If you started from the highlight color, then apply the shadow to things like recesses and panel lines.
If you started from the shadow color, use the highlight to fill in broader areas within panels that would receive the most light.
Don't stress if mistakes happen or it looks a little messy. Many issues are easily corrected with touch-ups of the prior color and minor issues are easily hidden by the top coat.
Apply the top coat in one or two thin layers so that the shadow and highlight colors leave contrasts where you want.
You can apply the top coat panel by panel for extra variation.
Stop. Take a break. Put the model down before you think you are done with the top coat. Let your eyes rest and then look at the model in a few different light sources. Ask yourself if you need another top coat layer because:
It is very easy to overdo the top coat, and thus undo the pre-shading.
As you add varnishes and weathering, the pre-shading effect will soften.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 as needed.
Work slowly and deliberately. Use thinned paints. You want to build up the effects gradually. Don't hesitate to take frequent breaks. Remember that all techniques in this hobby benefit from patience!
Examples
This 1/48 Brewster Buffalo started out in Vallejo's Gray Surface Primer (73.601) and was followed up with Tamiya's Dark Gray (XF-24). Vallejo's Model Air M495 Light Grey (71.298) was used for the top coat. Even though this build was monochromatic, panel line pre-shading provided plenty of texture before final weathering.
Next we have a 1/700 Oliver Hazard Perry-class that started with Vallejo's Black Surface Primer (73.602). Tamiya's Flat White (XF-2) was used to fill in the broader areas. This build proves that pre-shading is usable on a variety of subjects and scales, and that you can start from either highlight or shadow colors.
Brush painting experiment
From time to time I enjoy taking an old model and giving it new life. Call it a refurbishment. At the same time, I like to experiment with something new. After all, a refurbishment is as close to a free build as there is. So if things go wrong, there's no bad feelings. Now let's take a look at this 1/35 Sd.Kfz. 250/9 where everything after the Vallejo Black Surface Primer (73.602) was brushed by hand.
I started with several thin coats of Vallejo's Middlestone (70.882) for the main body color. Then I highlighted the centers of panels with a mixture of Middlestone and Vallejo's Pale Sand (70.837). Next I shaded panel lines with a mixture of Middlestone and Vallejo's German Camo Black Brown (70.822). The very center of some panels received further highlights. To finish things off, I added several more thin layers of Middlestone mixed with Vallejo's Glaze Medium (70.596). The Glaze Medium was added to help with the paint translucency. The result is a relatively cool looking paint job. It's not perfect, but I think the technique has merit. It is something I will likely explore on future hand painted builds.
Tips
Camouflage is always tricky. This 1/35 Type 90 tank was an earlier project from my return to the hobby, and I proceeded to do camouflage the way I always did, and the way that many new modelers do. That is, lay down a base coat over the entire model, and then add the secondary camouflage colors where needed. This approach may be fine if you are going to rely on post-shading and weathering to enhance your model, but with pre-shading it won't be ideal.
Here you can see the various stages of painting. The turret has a standard pre-shading application using Tamiya's NATO Black (XF-69) and Tamiya's Flat White (XF-2). The body was then sprayed with a custom mix of colors to approximate JGSDF Green. Then I used Silly Putty to mask off camo lines before laying down a custom mix of colors to approximate JGSDF Brown. You can easily see that where there is still green, there is still pre-shading. But where there is brown, there is no pre-shading. In other words, the extra layer of brown hid all the pre-shading work! So next time you want to paint camouflage and use pre-shading, avoid doubling up on color layers. Spray each body color to complement one another, not overlap.
The next tip is for pre-shading a model with different colors spanning broad areas. Take this two-tone scheme on my 1/48 FM-1 Wildcat, for example. Because we are dealing with a light and a dark body color, consider altering the pre-shading shadow color used under each. That being a lighter shadow color under the light body color, and a darker shadow color under the darker body color. Intuitive enough. Here I used Vallejo's Dark Gull Gray (71.277) under the scheme’s Insignia White (71.279) areas and Dark Gull Gray mixed with Black (70.950) for under the scheme’s Dark Gull Gray areas.
Final thoughts
Panel line pre-shading is an amazing way to elevate your modeling skills. This straightforward technique can instantly enhance depth, detail, and variation on nearly any project. It's a fundamental skill that every modeler should know, and it's a fantastic stepping stone to more advanced painting methods. I can't wait for you to try it on your next build!
Thanks for reading,
Mido
Contact the author: mido@igluemodels.com and Twitter @igluemodels